We are starting to climb now. Hopefully we will have legs and lungs ready for St. Bernard. The day started easily with a walk on an old ex railway track for a few km up this lovely valley. We pass several more little campsites and get coffee in Lods having crossed the river Loue. We follow the river to its source today. The map looks impressive, the valley narrows as we march upstream until we start steeply up the left side to the little village of Moutier St. Pierre where we pass a small area of vineyard clinging to the side of the valley, blessed by a cross. We learn the valley is proud of its past wine products but sadly virtually non is made in the area now, first phyloxerra then lack of labour after WW1 caused even the monks in the monastery who had a reputation for quality in the 19thC to stop producing.
We get some fruit for tomorrow and a baguette for lunch today in Moutier, we are spotted by two kids shut in a garden. They bleat pathetically at us. The valley narrows further we descend into the Gorges de Nouailles past a small hydroelectric power station and start to track up and down the right side of the river. The gorge sides are heavily forested so we are in cool shade, even so it is hot work going up and around the various bits of limestone alongside the river in the steep gorge. We stop for lunch beside the river and the continue up to the barrage and the emergence of the Loue from its underground lair. This is a tourist spot we did see a few people walking in the gorge but there’s a few more here. The good news is a café and beer at the top.
It’s now only 1km to our lodging a Chambre d’hote in Oulans. We are met by Monsieur who is in “work in progress” Oh no not again! He sends us round the corner but all is well Madame greets us and we get beer and showers.
Tomorrow is Pontalier,a rendezvous with the Green Fairy! No not Raymond.