We loved Lucca, a maze of narrow streets and medieval churches, culminating in the Piazza Antitheatro, an big oval space that used to be the roman amphitheatre and now is full of bars and restaurants.
We set off into heavy rain and heavy traffic across a flat landscape of industrial units.
All five of our chums manage to meet up with us in a bar for the first coffee stop and as we emerge the rain eases off.
There is little to entertain us until we reach Altopascio. We spot a bar full of men in hi-viz having a labourer’s lunch at 8 euros so we join them. The remains of San Jacobo, one of the most famous stops on the Via Francigena include a castellated bell tower which apparently housed the bell of the lost which was rung to guide pilgrims to the hospital through the impenetrable marshes, well it’s a good story anyway.
After getting a special pilgrim stamp in our credentials we set off again, we need no bell to guide us through the oak woods and olive groves as the way is so well marked. The only wildlife is an unidentifiable butterfly (any suggestions anyone?)
We arrive at a B and B in the country for tonight’s stop to be welcomed by Hugo the pot bellied pig.
Silver-washed fritillary (Argynnis paphia).