We leave the best little campsite we have known. The music last night may have stopped by 11 it did not disturb us. It is the only site where soap and a hand towel are provided in the toilets as well as toilet paper, bread is available at 7am and it is not full of traveling campervans.
We are on roads for a good way and cross multiple small villages with church spires decorated with coloured tiles. One is called Achey, Betsy finds this appropriate and stops for some paracetamol, her feet are uncomfortable. We classify villages by what they have that is useful to us. Many have a hairdresser or a funeral parlor but no café and no supermarket or corner shop. but Dampire Sur Salon has a salon it is the river down whose valley we walk to the Saonne. It does also have a supermarket where we shop for dinner.
We still have various butterflies including Peacocks White Admirals and the ubiquitous Marbled White. One small village has an interesting bridge, a lavoir with views and a château with arrow slits. In a field with recent haycutting we see 6or7 kites probably Black Kites lacking the deep v tail but reddish in colour. They are very interested in something as were 2 or 3 in a similar field yesterday. Maybe by catch from hay cutting.
We leave Dampire Sur Salon with its vaguely art deco cinema,, down moderately busy D36 and are pleased to leave it to walk the Saonne canal towpath for a short way and then cross the Saonne. It is a large river even up here and navigable by sizeable barges.
Unlike many rivers on the way we will only see it this once. Sayonara!