6.05.08

A very good nights sleep in a bed ! A good breakfast and off feeling better than yesterday. Picked the Cotswold Way in Hillesley passed a very large monument to Lord General Somerset (whoever he was) they do like their monuments in this part of the world.

Path at one point passes through a sea of Oilseed Rape in full flower (?future diesel fuel) and more beech woods with wild garlic in bloom. Some good views off the Cotswold escarpment , with clear blue skies and a perfect walking temperature, unfortunately not up to rapid yomping yet, but improving.

Really kept on walking too far today ending on a hill overnight, overlooking Bath, 25 miles walked today is too far. Right shin is on fire.

5.05.08

Woke this morning to the patter of rain on the tent, and sound of heavy duty birds flying overhead, presume on their way in to the Wild Fowl Trust next door, I didn’t leap out to see who they were! But soon enough got up, swallowed my last muesli, put the wet tent on top of the pack and set off. Not actually raining but very threatening. Felt better than yesterday but it didn’t last, now about 6 hours later in the Royal Oak in Wooton under Edge various aches are present but settling, will probably do a few miles this afternoon (must get some muesli). But hey the day is brightening up weather wise Well, it stopped raining anyway.

Earlier today left the Severn Way at Slimbridge and headed south inland to the Cotswolds about 7miles to Stinchcombe (nice churchyard full of blossom)

and North Nibley(11:00 too soon for lunch) and then decided to go up Nibley Knoll (really should not have a K), at the top of which is a monument to William Tyndale who first translated the bible into English and had it printed! Heavy reformation stuff and the antithesis of the pilgrimage whose pilgrims attempted it in the hope of Indugences and an afterlife in Heaven not Hell (in those days high risk and high gain).

Then along through the beech woods on top of Wooton Hill and joining the Cotswold Way.

Now finishing the day at the appropriately named Folly Farm, where according to the map there was a camp site "We haven’t had camping for 14 years" (Map published date 1986), Oh well the B&B is £30. A Hot bath was fantastic, Of such small ecstasies is a pilgrims life!

Dry night, all kit washed dry and packed, so strolled down to Gloucester cathedral to just miss the 08:30 service. Unfortunately no stamp available, have an info piece of paper with a logo to make something with. Saw the Denny window - the verger seemed to think his best work is at Chepstow in a small parish church, must find out more about him.

. Now I notice that the Gloucester – Sharpness Canal goes to Slimbridge by a much more direct path than the winding River Severn so follow it from Gloucester docks (greasy spoon breakfast at 09:00). Rather damp day but cape working well; once over the pack it can be adjusted to cope with heat or rain in various ways. I’m sure I look ridiculous but who cares..

The water way obviously dates to Victorian times and the bridge keepers' cottages have incongruous Greek/Roman pillars around their front doors. The swing bridges are manually operated providing much needed exercise for the bridge keepers who would otherwise just sit there all day.

Arrive Slimbridge, Tudor caravan park at 15:30 £7 per night (yesterday was £11 but the loos were cleaner) but quite busy.

3.05.08

Saturday, Woke up to the sound of ducks and curlews, very heavy dew, tent, grass and all soaking wet. I was about 2 miles down stream of Upton on Severn. Had breakfast and packed rather damply, and walked around 5 miles into Tewksbury.

Passing under the M50 on the way.

Thought I would get the Pilgrim Passport stamped at Tewesbury Abbey. Beautiful old building. In active use morning service had just finished and the rather envious elderly vicar was happy to sign me off. A most beautiful MODERN yellow stained glass window by a chap called Denny, apparently he made one in

Glouster Cathedral must look tomorrow, also one in Malvern Priory. I didn’t know anyone did that anymore, very glad they do.    http://www.stcwh.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/index_files/page0004.htm

Feet blistered but blisters not broke so very slow down the bank, passed by a very large cruise ship!!!!!!!!! Oliver Cromwell! No comment. Dryed out the tenton the way

Now stopped early at a nice camp site by The Red Lion at Bishops Norton right on the Severn Way, a bit busy because it is Bank holiday. Have done my washing, had a shower and plugged in the laptop in the pub. Feeling much better now.

2.05.08

Well what a day got up with dawn , eat muesli, and walked down into Worcester, into cathedral where a pleasant visitor guide showed me the exhibit in the crypt of the pilgrims boots and staff with an account of his discovery and the site of his reinterment after the archeology was done.

His boots!

I then wandered over to the cathedral office to get the pilgrim passport stamped, they were expecting me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  They proceeded to tell me all about the blessing from the Dean, when they got to the press coverage I had to own up, I think you have the wrong pilgrim, and so it proved . A very pleasant chap called Gareth Thomas is walking the Camino for many reasons including “Whizz-kids charity” http://www.whizz-kidz.org.uk/ and to take a replica of the Pilgrims staff to Santiago , still I got to join the blessing though I slid away before the press call. He later caught me up and walked the legs off me while imparting much useful information. I also got from the Dean provided Katherine Lack http://www.csj.org.uk/acatalog/The_CSJ_Bookshop_Historical_Works_6.htmlwho provided Gareths staff and did much research on the pilgrim  thanks very much a blessed scallop shell (the emblem of the Pilgrims of St James.

I staggered on down the river arriving in Upton on Severn about1700hrs to find the town gearing up for a folk festival, Fish and chips and a pint of liquid pain killer later I slipped off down the river to camp miles from nowhere in my little home.

1.05.08

Started at last a very good start , a good breakfast at home then down to Derek and Suzy who had the misfortune to be right on the canal, where I joined it, another coffee and a joyous greeting by the herd of Bernese Mountain Dogs they breed.. Then Mark the dive shop arrived also to wish me well.

Walking rapidly down the canal system passed relics of the past, the via duct outside Kidderminster where the railway is poised victorious over the defeated canal, only to fall in turn to the car and the internal combustion engine, is particularly appropriate for a walk that eschews all motorized transport to hark back to medieval times.

 The marks on the hand rail are from the tow ropes from the horse drawn barges of the past.

The tow path goes past the base of one of the carpet mill towers, beautifully made in different bricks from the local blackcountry clays.

Finally on to the River Severn at Stourport where a new development is taking place on the riverside. Don’t they know it floods? After a bit of worry the level of the Severn is not to high except at one point forcing me to climb a steep gulley full of nettles and burrs!

Hardly a drop of rain all day (thank you Mark for your intercession), and I write this in the last of the sun in a camp field overlooking the Severn near Holt Fleet, a very good first day if a little weary.