We are now post siesta, everyone needed that nap, and are sitting in the main square in Utera drinking Manzanilla. We have just found and visited the local church dedicated to Sant Iago with the mutamoros as a painting and a pilgrim statue over the alter. It has a fine dome and bell tower with storks! This is a nice little town with a traditional centre. We have not yet tried Mustachones (the strange things in bags in the service station) and may well not, but this is where they come from.